Advanced Routing (Art of Woodworking) by Ted Fuller

By Ted Fuller

The artwork of Woodworking - complicated Routing

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Circular saw to make rough cuts in sheet goods before precisely cutting with a tablesaw. If the circular saw cuts cleanly and you use a reliable rip guide, you can even use it to make finish cuts in sheets (see p. 55). Equip a circular saw with a finish-cutting blade that has at least 40 teeth; for cutting melamine, use a blade made especially for that. a good mid-priced circular saw and a jigsaw, once equipped with the right blades and operated with care, can make many of the cuts needed for cabinet work.

Also called “FAS one face,” these boards meet FAS standards on one face only; the other face is no. 1 common or better. Selects. This is almost the same as F1F but with a smaller minimum board length—those 4 in. by 6 ft. and larger. Some boards bought at a hardwood store may have rough edges like this. Wood 43 Prime. This is a more general grade but refers to boards of various sizes that are clear and free of visible defects. No. 1 common. Sometimes called cabinet grade because it meets minimum standards for cabinet doors, this refers to boards 3 in.

You can quickly secure cabinet cases with wood glue and a power trim nailer or stapler. A brad nailer drives nails long enough for rabbeted joints. A trim or brad nailer drives screws that are nearly invisible. A stapler’s fasteners are definitely visible, but they’re strong. To o l s 33 Squares You will continually check for square as you work, because driving even one fastener while a cabinet is misaligned will make it permanently imperfect. In addition to a framing square, keep on hand a small and large Speed® Square to check quickly for square, a sliding combination square to check in tight spots and to make quick measurements, and a T-bevel for capturing and marking odd angles.

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