By John A. Nelson
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Read or Download Advanced Scroll Saw Clocks: Measured Drawings for Five Antique Samples PDF
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Extra info for Advanced Scroll Saw Clocks: Measured Drawings for Five Antique Samples
Never excessively dress the side of a wheel. I usually lightly dress the sides of a wheel with a diamond dresser to true it up when I first mount it, then only dress once or twice more with a diamond during the life of the wheel. Set the rest so that it is level (on an axis of the wheel) and use this as a place to support the shank of the tool. You will have to "guesstimate" the correct angle. As an aid, layout a 42° angle on a piece of cardboard, cut it out and use it for comparison. When grinding on the side of the wheel, there is a tendency for the top half of the tool to be ground more than the bottom.
Generally speaking, a wheel of medium friability is about right for general woodworking-tool grinding. It would also be my choice for sharpening carbon-steel tools, such as plane irons and bench chisels. Harder wheels are more aggressive and are better for initial shaping of high-speed steel (HSS) tools. Aluminum-oxide wheels can be found through mail-order woodworker catalogs. A common mistake is to use a wheel with too fine a grit. A good roughing wheel is 46 to 60 grit, while the finishing wheel should be 80 to 120 grit.
Use the tool in the usual way at the point you want to size with the calipers. As you approach the diameter, lightly touch the calipers down in the kerf made by the tool. As the exact size is reached, the calipers will drop over the spindle, and you know to stop cutting. There is a natural tendency to force the calipers a bit, and they have enough spring to pop over the spindle when it is still considerably oversize. A light touch will ensure that they drop over, rather than pop over, the spindle.