By Harold Payson
Simply outfitted boats for amateurs. contains 3 stitch-and-glue designs-a process that permits the plywood seams to be "taped" including fiberglass and resin rather than steel fastenings-and 3 traditional designs outfitted with out a jig.
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You may wish to brush a coat of resin over the entire exterior and allow this to harden. If the hull is "primed" with resin beforehand it is easier to saturate the freshly laid cloth. The next step is to grind the taped edges and get rid of any glass bubbles that could interfere with laying down the fiberglass cloth. For this I use a disc sander and about 20-grit paper. You want to get the surface flat but not smooth. The scratches from the coarse sandpaper make for a stronger bond. Twelve yards of to-ounce 38-inch cloth will cover her hull completely.
Now you're ready to close Gypsy in. Pin her side panels to her transom, then pin them to each of the bulkheads, making sure that the tops of her bulkheads are flush with the sides along the sheer. Work the sides along to where they land on the stem, and if all looks well, glue them there. Then glue the sides to the transom, adjust the frame molds to make sure they lie at a right angle to the backbone, and glue the sides to them. Spread glue across the bottom of Gypsy's transom and along her backbone, and apply the bottom panel, checking that its centerline lies along the backbone.
Whether you're using wood or cardboard, there are various ways of tackling this project. You can lay your see-through drafting paper right over the plans and then transfer the outlines to your material or paste them directly on it before you cut out the components. If you have access to those thin straight-edged veneers model-airplane makers use, you can layoff all the shapes on the veneers with a rule, batten, and square. I've tried all the methods I've mentioned, building up my display of Tack-and-Tape boat models, and this is the slowest-also the most prone to error.